Herself’s Houston Garden

Down here on the Gulf Coast root knot nematodes can destroy gardens. Commonly people bring them home on tomato plants and once in the garden they are near impossible to eradicate.

I’ve been reading ‘Silent Spring’ in bits and pieces and tonight’s reading mentioned the use of marigolds as a treatment for root knot nematodes. After a bit of digging through old texts and online I discovered marigolds are still commonly used as a treatment for infected soils.

In ‘Silent Spring’ Rachael discusses success had planting marigolds among roses in some infected soil. Down here it’s your vegetable garden that is likely to be the problem.

The marigolds release alpha-terthienyl through the roots. The alpha-terthienyl is extremely toxic to nematodes, many insects and viruses. It works by preventing the hatching of the nematode eggs.

In addition, nematodes can not feed on marigold hosts, so you are also denying the nematodes food.

While you can always plant nematode resistant plants ( check for the N on the plant label ) Marigolds might be a nicer option.

Not all marigolds will prevent and harm root knot nematodes, do a bit of research first.

Varieties recommended for control of southern root knot nematode include: Tagetes patula, T. erecta, T. minuta.

More information:
Marigolds ( Tagetes spp. ) for Nematode Management

All plants do well in great soil with the right amount of sun and water. Home landscapes rarely give us the right location with out a great deal of time and money. Sometimes it’s just easier to go with the flow.

Here are easiest plants, that I’ve enjoyed for your most difficult areas.
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Shade/Dry plants

Snake plants
Sanservieria trifasciata

Shell Ginger
Alpinia zerumbet

Gardenia
Gardenia

Toad Lily
Tricytris Formsana

Peacock Ginger
Kaempheria Pulchria

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Shade/Wet

Gardenia
Gardenia

Tree Philodendron
Philodendron Bipinnatifidum

Society Garlic
Alliaceae Tublighia Violacea

Philodendron xanadu
Philodendron Xanadu

Alocasia Metallica
Colocasia Fontanesii

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Sun/Dry plants

Angel’s Trumpet
Brugmansia

Mexican petunia
Ruellia Brittoniana

Firecracker
Hamelia Patens

Cat’s Whiskers
Orthosiphon Aristatus

Century plants
Agave Americana

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Sun/Wet

Angel’s Trumpet
Brugmansia

Flag Iris
Iris Pseudacorus

Tree Fern
Cyathea Australis

Lion’s Ear
Leonotis

Castor Bean
Ricinus Communis

If you don’t have time to take to go hear our local Master Gardener’s, you can see many of the lectures from the comfort of your home now.  The University of California has taped and made many of their Master Gardener Lectures available online at You Tube.

Plant Disease Part I
Plant Disease Part II

Home vegetable gardening part I
Home vegetable gardening part II

Intro to Entomology Part I
Intro to Entomology Part II

Integrated Pest Management Part I
Integrated Pest Management Part II

Principles of Vertebrate Pest Control Part I
Principles of Vertebrate Pest Control Part II

The Home Orchard Part I
The Home Orchard Part II

Turfgrass Management Part I
Turfgrass Management Part II

Planting and Care of Landscape Trees Part I
Planting and Care of Landscape Trees Part II

Weed Management Part I
Weed Management Part II

Understanding Pesticides Part I
Understanding Pesticides Part II

Irrigation and water control

Fruit trees need frequent proper pruning to reach their full potential.  You’ll want to spend some time once a year, after the fruit finishes and before the new buds appear to give your tree a serious pruning, but don’t let water spouts or crossing branches stay when you find them.

Remember when pruning to step back and circle the fruit tree frequently to see how it looks while you are working.  You want a slighly domed shaped top, and the bottom should look like a steep bowl.

1) Remove water spouts.  Water spouts are branches that grow at 90′ angles to the branch they stem from. They will take all of the nutrients and water away from the rest of the branch if you let them grow.

2) Remove all branches that bend down toward the ground.  Your branches should curve or reach up not down.

3) Remove all branches that cross another branch.  On windy days those crossing branches will rub each other.  This causes breaks in the bark where insects, fungus and bacteria can enter and harm your tree.

4) Thin branches so that sunlight reaches deep into the tree.  Fruit trees especially need lots of sun to grow well and remain healthy.

5) Shape the top just for appearace, cut back to the beginning any branches that stick out too far from the rest.

The branches you remove can be used to propagate new trees.  Cut the branches so that only 3 sets of leaves remain.  Remove the bottom set of leaves.  Dip the bottom of the branch in rooting hormone.  Plant in light soil and keep warm, moist and humid until new growth appears.  Then treat as you would any other young tree.