Herself’s Houston Garden

It’s getting harder and harder to single out plants in photos here. But I guess that is a good thing? This was planted about a year ago and it has doubled or more its height and filled out quite nicely.

I wish I had several more, but with city lots one must pick and choose plants.

This tree bloomed a little last year, more this year and in time should start to bloom through out the summer.

Southern magnolia should reach about 60′ tall and 30′ across. We are at the southern edge of where it will grow, so that may stunt its size some.

Some people remove the lower branches, some leave them on. I have not yet decided. When removing lower branches from a tree wait till they reach about 1″ in diameter. It is better for the trunk and overall growth.

Growth is slow when the tree is first planted and picks up as the tree settles in.

It is an evergreen. And likes regular feedings of nitrogen and iron. I give everything iron about once a year year.

Watch for scale, one dose of orange oil takes care of it for me.

This tree grows in full sun to part shade, this one receives full sun all afternoon. It is drought tolerant but prefers a moist, slightly acidic soil. My alkaline clay seems to suit this one.

Once is it grows it will shade out everything around and underneath it.

Sagos are one of the easiest plants to grow, though the growth can be frustratingly painful for some people. Usually a dose of fertilizer or removing the bottom third of the fronds will get the plant pushing out new fronds for you.

This plant has been working away putting out pups at the base last year and it’s getting ready to seed this year.

Yellowing on the outside of older fronds is not a problem and very rarely cause for concern. Just remove older fronds when they turn brown.

Scale can be a problem. Picking scale off a sago is a job for only the most devoted of gardeners. I’d recommend using orange oil. The first symptom of scale is often yellowing leaves. So if you have newer leaves turning yellow, flip them over and check for scale.

If there is no scale and there is yellowing of newer leaves check for fungus. Take a magnifying glass out to your sago and go over the leaves looking for bumps. Fungus can almost always be cured with a fungicide from your local nursery.

If there is no scale and no fungus then you are sitting where I am now. It is most likely a magnesium or nitrogen deficiency. Since this plant is busy making babies and seeds, I’m guessing that is probably the correct answer. I’ll fertilize tomorrow. If a lack of nutrients is the problem, the yellow spots will remain yellow, but new growth will be green.

More information:
Sago Palm, Cycas Revoluta, care and information

If you ‘ve given up growing hostas down here or are looking for a hosta replacement, consider these gingers. Kaempheria pulchria grow in shade, remain small and provide wonderful foliage and small purple flowers.

All gingers are safe to eat from flowers to leaves to roots, that doesn’t mean they will all taste good though.

Like hostas they are the very last plant to show up in your garden each spring. Be patient if yours do not reappear. Some will wait till mid June before poking a leaf up, the ground must reach 70′F first. These will go dormant over the winter.

They form rounded clumps as they grown between 6″-12″ in height and 9″-12″ across depending on the variety.

Peacock gingers bloom from June until November here. Each small purple flower blooms for one day to be replaced by a fresh flower the following day.

Plant them in the deep shade and water regularly all summer. They want to be moist. Go easy on the watering in the winter or them might rot.

The designs on the leaves are what draws people to peacock gingers more than the flowers. The leaves are much rounder than any of the other ginger families.

Propagate by dividing the rhizomes.

These gingers also do well in hanging baskets. They do well around the base of trees where it is too shady for other plants. Just remember to keep them moist.

This tree came with the house and it took me a while to get an id on it. The peeling bark on the stems adds great texture to the garden. The tree is very full and topped out at about 18′ with an 18′ spread. It can reach 50′ tall with a 40′ spread but I’ve not seen it that large locally.

This tree loves to grow in wet places. When it rains this area it is in is wet for days. In dry summers it is not so wet but the river birch seems to handle the dry spells well.

In the fall the leaves turn yellow and fall off, it will re-leaf out late spring.

River birches are grown in clumps and lower branches are removed just for a cleaner look, and so you can see that cool bark.

It doesn’t mind clay soils, making it a great choice for the Houston area. Leaves may be more yellow in alkaline areas, it prefers slightly acidic soils.

River birches want full sun.

I’ve a terrible problem with falling dead twigs off this tree. I had originally thought is was just the way these trees are. That is not the case. The problem is the ‘tree girdler beetle’. This beetle cuts the twigs, lays eggs on the twigs and they drop to the ground sending baby out into the world. There isn’t much of any treatment except to remove the twigs as they fall to keep future generations away from your tree.

Though not naturally short lived it may be so in urban or dry areas, living only 20 or 30 years. In wet areas it will live a long, full life.